How far will you travel to watch the sunrise from inside the clouds?
I didn’t know anything about Ella before going to Sri Lanka. I try to avoid social media hype while I’m traveling, but while I was in Galle, someone mentioned how beautiful Ella is, and it captured my imagination. I wanted to go.
There were a couple of problems. My hotel in Kandy was nonrefundable, and the train tracks from Kandy to Ella had been damaged during the last monsoon rains. The train ride is part of the appeal, and it seemed that a significant portion of the journey would now be by bus. I was also near the end of my trip, which meant I would only have one night in Ella at most.
Deciding to Go Anyway
Thara had driven me earlier in the trip from Colombo to Kandy, and we talked about my travels so far and what I had planned next. He told me that if we had met earlier, he would have designed my itinerary differently. That’s usually how it goes. My trips tend to change while I’m in them. Plans shift, routes evolve, and while it’s not always efficient, that’s part of the experience.
I was already leaning toward going to Ella. The drive itself would be scenic, but what convinced me was seeing photos of the sunset from Golden View Guesthouse, which he recommended. I had already booked a refundable train ticket, but once he explained that much of the journey would be by bus, I cancelled it and arranged a driver instead. Thara wasn’t available that day but arranged for his friend to drive me from Kandy to Ella.
The hotel in Kandy was still an issue. I had already paid for three nights, so I reached out through Booking.com and asked if they would shorten my stay to two nights. If they agreed, that would be a bonus. If not, I would accept the cost. I tend to make a decision first and deal with the logistics after.
The Drive to Ella
I left Kandy at 8 a.m. Not long after, we stopped at Ambuluwawa Tower, a spiral structure set up on a hill. You have to take a tuk tuk from the parking area to get there, and the ride up was steep, winding, and a bit exhilarating. I didn’t go all the way up the tower because of my fear of heights and I didn’t feel the need to push myself this time. But even from partway up, the views were beautiful.
There isn’t much to see at the tower itself, but the setting is interesting. It was created as a place to represent the different religions common in Sri Lanka, and there are a few other religious sites nearby.
There were a few other planned stops along the way: a short hike with a waterfall, fresh strawberry juice, and some sightseeing in Nuwara Eliya. I stopped at the post office there, which is quite picturesque, and sent several postcards to friends. I also planned to stop at the food stalls run by women nearby, but they were closed due to the holiday. I skipped the plantation tour since I had already done one in Galle, and we had planned to stop to see women picking tea, but it was a holiday.
Even without that, the drive itself was enough. By the time we reached Ella in the late afternoon, I was ready to slow down.
A Night in the Clouds
I sat on the balcony and watched the sunset as the clouds rolled in and settled around the hills. By the time the light started to fade, it felt like I was sitting inside them. This was what I came for.
After a week of working full days and moving through the country, I went to bed early. The next morning, I woke up to the sunrise from my room. I didn’t need to go anywhere.
Not Doing Everything
I considered getting up early to go out and see more. By then, I had seen all the familiar images like Nine Arch Bridge, viewpoints, the train winding through the hills. But I wasn’t on this trip to collect photos. I hadn’t slept more than six hours a night all week. I had been working, traveling, climbing stairs, and I could feel my knee starting to bother me. I could have pushed myself to see more, but I didn’t want to.
I had already had my night in the clouds. I had watched the sunrise from my room. That felt like enough. When I told the driver I was ready to leave, he was surprised. Most people stay longer and try to see everything. All I wanted on the way back was a roadside waterfall stop and some tropical fruit.
What Ella Was for Me
I went to Ella because of something someone said in passing. I rearranged my plans, was willing to give up a prepaid hotel night, and changed how I was getting there.
I stayed less than 24 hours, but I got exactly what I wanted: a quiet evening, a sunset in the clouds, and a sunrise without having to go anywhere.
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